Cuts on the Bias

Let me tell you a secret

A lot of people complain (rightfully so) about the emaciated women on covers of magazines, runways, catalogs and AD campaigns-but aside from the obvious "beauty in youth" notion, there's actually an explanation.

Let's say you're a designer and you want a certain sort of silk, it's $32/yard wholesale and you need to buy 100yds. You first make a sample of a dress out of this fabric and the sample ends up taking 3 yds of fabric. Doing the math you can produce around 30 dresses, assuming they are all going to be the same size. When designers are on a budget they need to make smaller amounts and smaller sizes-unfortunate but true.

Designers, especially young or new ones don't have enough capital to make size runs of 0-24, also the stores that really hike up the prices (giving them more money to create next years collections) don't carry anything higher than 12. It's a little bit of a "what came first" scenario but the bottom line is that it is cost affective to make the first sample (the one you see down the runway) small.

Now business wise, designers like to choose models to "represent" their brand, thus that model becomes the "face" of the brand. That's why those little models get the AD campaigns, they are the face of Chanel or Dior etc.

I'm not giving an excuse to designers-it's actually more cost effective to make clothes for the masses-but, fashion, quite often is about fantasy and escapism, not practicality and mass production.

If the J.Crews and Gaps of the world would just vary their models (like the Dove AD campaign shown above), show what the clothes look like on a size 10 or maybe on a size 4 45 year old, they could stay relevant and make money in a time when I don't even want to buy new socks.

And the running back wore pink

After I logged onto my fantasy football league Sunday morning, I turned on FOX (which is the only time I watch that network, oh, except for Glee) and imagine my shock when all the men are wearing hot pink!

The NFL must have read the memo about women watching/participating in fantasy football this year, because they had a HUGE breast cancer awareness campaign yesterday. The men were wearing pink gloves, pink shoes, wrist bands and pink stickers on the helmets. This was very smart for many reasons...

1.SWOON whoever came up with this marketing campaign- I can't believe you got all these guys to wear hot pink-it's all I could see on the field, cute hot pink feet and fingers. I was giggling all day.

2.It didn't seem girly at all (mostly because someone made the wise decision to use hot pink vs. baby pink) it seemed more like a jazzy fashion statement, like NFL meets Studio 54.

3.Fantastic PR for the NFL, here I am, a 30 year old fashion editor praising the NFL on my fashion blog.

The next project should be "NFL supports the arts!", they can all wear opera gloves and patent leather tap shoes. SIGN ME UP.

I dare you to wear these

I could write a book on shoes and how to wear them. With so many factors like, height, length of leg, comfort, practicality and age, finding the right shoe isn't as easy as it seems. They can totally vamp up an outfit but they can also take it down in flames. Here are some rules I follow and hopefully some can apply to your life as well.

1. Never wear mules or clogs. Orthopedic doesn't equal accessory. Those are work shoes for nurses and chefs-they have no other purpose, even if you think they do. Have you ever seen a spread in Vogue-"Top Mules for Fall!" No you haven't.

2. Wedges are tricky. I think if you wear them under wide leg pants or with a sundress in the summer than you might be ok. BUT they are essentially wood bricks. So if you have short legs, you could really shorten your appearance rather than elongate.

3. Kitten heels are for wusses. What's the point? Wear flats if you can't wear heels. A kitten heel is a rip off and a fraud, I detest.

4.Thigh high boots are for no one. I love them, I wish I could wear them but you end up looking like a hooker and unless you have skinny knees and legs, you actually look like you have a leather cast on.

5.USE cushions whenever possible. I feel empowered by heels, mostly because I can rise above others armpits-but running around in them hurts and carrying around sneakers is annoying. I found if I order my heels a half size bigger, then put in gel insoles or even custom made supports, I beat the system.

The best bit of advice I can give is to find a heel height that suits you and buy in a variety of colors and fabrics. If you're comfortable with the heel height you will be more open to wearing them often. You should buy open toe and close toe and pointy and ankle strap-go crazy. You don't need to change with the trends you just need to make sure you have enough variety in your closet so you don't stray and buy some god for saken clogs.

High Style

 

For the record I love high heels and I wear them every chance I get. I also love my feet--they've turned out to be quite valuable body parts that are holding up better than many others. As a result, I "listen" to them and do what they say. Right now they are saying not to buy heels that could be mistaken for a torture device, even if they are a gorgeous shade of red. Fortunately, I know Kelley will tell me these are not age-appropriate. Duly noted.

What I would highly value as I prepare to buy some new Fall/Winter stuff is expert fashion advice on what an adult woman should buy this season to update her wardrobe without a) needing a government bailout, and b) looking like a cast member on Cougars.  Kelley--please, post with links. Gracias.

It's Moschino (moe skeen oh) oh la la

Please note how hot Mrs. Biden looks as well...

A Full Frontal Apology

I'm getting yelled at (mostly by my Grandmother and Heather) for not posting more. And I agree, what's the point of a blog if you don't keep it up? This may sound weird but this isn't my job. I am very lucky to actually have 2 jobs during this economy-and they keep me very busy.

One of my jobs is with my mother/blogging partner/IT Department, so unfortunately, when one of us doesn't blog it's because we're putting out fires over at Smocks (which by the way have you bought one lately?)

My other job is at Sundance Channel, working to launch their new fashion site, Full Frontal Fashion. When you go to the site you'll see this wasn't a small gig-fairly major. I'm very proud of what we put together and would love some feedback either here or there.

As for COTB, we're gonna mix it up a little and not just focus on fashion and technology anymore (frankly we're getting a little burnt out on both topics) but on all things of interest. Hopefully, that will get us back here writing and you won't get bored with our lack of innovation.

They're called Winkers

TGIF

Royal Rags

I've found a new role model. At least a new fashion role model. She's Queen Rania of Jordan. True I don't have many state functions to attend and I can't remember the last time I needed a tiara, but look at this woman's clothes - she's exquisite.

Kelley will approve, but she'll also point out (in a kind way) that the Queen is about 2' taller than I am. Point well taken. I'm not thinking I will wear the exact same clothes, I just admire the tone and manner of her wardrobe. She's elegant and appropriate without being predictable. You really have to admire a woman who wears a ruffled skirt and stilettos to meet the pope.

Now here's the problem: Where to I shop for these clothes? I can't zip over to Jordan and my local retailers seem to fixated on ever cheaper versions of rock star gear. I refuse to wear leather pants ever again in my life (sigh of relief from Kelley). I'm oh-so-tired of anything remotely baby doll or puffy. I didn't like punk the first time around and I really don't need to add even more black pieces to my already dark wardrobe. Yet this pretty much sums up what's for sale near me. That, and leather boots, thick sweaters and overcoats - exactly what I need in August.

Kathie Lee's First

Lovely piece on the Today show with Kathie Lee and Hoda. They reviewed a number of clever kitchen items including our wonderful, chic Smocks!  Favorite lines:  "Finally, Smocks that aren't unattractive," and from Kathie Lee as she puts on Ashley "This will be a first!"

Visit msnbc.com for Breaking News, World News, and News about the Economy

Dog O'day

As Christopher has mentioned before, new companies require all of your attention and a great deal of patience. For those reasons I have been neglecting my beloved blog. This blog, for me, is a moment to sit and vent/share and vent, or all of the above, and I think it's healthy for all parties involved.

Here is my vent of the day-where are her feet?
I know she knows she's stepping on her pant legs, and I know she knows her legs look like they're stuck in those Chinese finger traps. I don't know where her friends were that night and where or why they hid the mirror. Who even makes a feather headpiece for a dog-was it her? Why people, why?

Smocks!

We had a bit of a birth today. Kelley's and my new online store, Smocks, opened for business.

Smocks sells only one thing: designer inspired aprons. Why aprons--especially from two women who have always had careers and have spent very little time in the kitchen? Because they are functional and fun. Although an entire generation missed out on them in pursuit of "I am woman" status, aprons are miraculous accessories that protect your expensive clothes, reduce dry cleaning bills and (if you choose well) spice up your wardrobe for cheap. Toss a cute apron (preferably one of our Smocks) on your standard black outfit and voila--instant sass with a dash of sexy!

The fun part is in the variety. Good quality aprons cost about the same as good quality T-shirts, but they provide a great deal more drama and style. If you're hosting a party, everyone will know you're the queen bee. If you're making yet another spaghetti dinner, at least you'll look good. The problem has been lack of imagination. Most aprons are either made for men (bib aprons) or for Lucille Ball. We decided to design aprons that could complement clothes by Marc Jacobs, Prada, Zak Posen, Jason Wu. You know, designers from this century.

I'm particularly fond of aprons, and Smocks in particular, because I've run out of good gifts. If you are female and are having a bridal shower, baby shower, Mother's Day celebration, birthday, dinner party, gallery opening, book signing, company launch, Bunco party, spring BBQ, new haircut unveiling, or graduation from anywhere--you're getting a limited edition, made in the USA, so hip it hurts Smock.

Looking Ahead

A trend that we saw last Spring, "The Statement Necklace" is alive and well for Fall. The nice thing about this trend is that you can find these at Banana Republic and J.crew, they have officially trickled down. Just throw one over a boring t-shirt, sweater or button up, it's one of the easiest trends out there. You can start small or pile it on, up to you. Here are a few of my favorites (for inspiration) so far, I'm sure there are more to come.

Marrakesh Express

I have spent the last two days packing, I'm unemployed so I can do that. I've traveled a lot in my life so I don't get nervous about flights or customs or language barriers, but I get no sleep until I've figured out what to wear. It's 75 degrees in Marrakesh, but it drops to the 40's at night. There will be some rain,  some camel rides and a lot of time spent in the desert-what the hell does one wear on a camel?

I find I get a little paralyzed when I can't wear heels, they make me taller and add a little personality, I like flats but sometimes I feel like a 4 year old in them. It should be noted that I'm 5'3 ok 5'2...5'2" and a little bit extra. I've been told by my dear friends over there that there is a bit of harassment by men so I don't really want to pack anything flashy or revealing but it's the dead of winter in NY still and refuse to wear a sweater and jeans the whole time. I've decided to compromise and buy some great flashy sandals tomorrow and a long dress in a neutral color. I'll let you know how that goes.

Aside from beautiful deserts and architecture, Marrakesh has some killer kaftans! I intend to buy one in every color. Mrs. Roper knew what she was doing, not that I think kaftans are an everyday thing, but how grand to cruise around your house draped in jewels surrounded by a big piece of soft fabric. Sign me up and add a cocktail.

I keep coming back to Prada

The Milan shows are over, some good some bad and only a few stand outs. I'm going to wait until the Paris shows are done to give a trend forecast but unfortunately a return to the 80's disco club seems inevitable. Sick.

Maybe that's why I have such a soft spot for Prada this season. I thought Pradas last season was pretty but not too smart or provocative, something I come to expect from her. Last year her models fell several times on the runway, the insanely high heels and ankle socks combined with tight skirts almost seemed to mock women not celebrate them.

This season the ladies seem so strong, almost stomping on the runway. Wool suits in brown, grey and red made you take notice and even though the waders seem impractical it sets a very independent tone for the collection- sort of like the ladies go to the office and then catch their own fish.  And yes, if I were to frolic in the marshes or go fishing you better believe I'd be wearing Prada. Cathy Horyn did a lovely short write up of the show, she too was impressed, makes me like her even more.

*No I'm not a fan of the hair and make up. Sometimes I just cover their faces with my thumb.

Please don't wear capris

I'm not gonna say told ya so but this is what happens when you only supply your vacation house with scuba gear. Before you grab those capris I know you have hiding somewhere please consider a trip to your local mall. This situation calls for a long dress like the young lady is wearing in the sartorialist pic from this summer. Then go buy the long thick scarf the other lady is wearing-it doubles as a shawl, you could also get a cardigan but that's not as chic. Skip the hats. If you stumble upon a short trench or lightwieght coat grab that as well, you'll need it again, always good to have extra layers on hand. Keep the sandals on or grab some flats but those don't really warm up your feet much. God speed, and I told ya so.

New Yorks answer to a recession? LEATHER SHORTS!

What the hell is going on? I'm not losing faith in my beloved city but when did the NY designers have a pow wow and decide that high waist leather shorts were gonna be the "it" item for Fall?

When trends like this roll around I tend to think, Ok who can wear this? Gwyneth Paltrow? She's got legs for days and rarely makes fashion mistakes, what would she look like in them?

Meh. Not that great. If Gwyn can't rock em no one can.

Drop your pants

I've been waiting to see if the cropped trouser trend would stick around a while, it caters to the petite but can also work on leggier types. I'm always in favor of showing off your ankles, they're the smallest part of your leg and in cropped pants it gives an illusion that your entire leg might just be that skinny.

I saw cropped trousers, harem pants and even genie pants last Spring show so to see just the trousers return so far is a good sign. This is exit #3 from Karen Walker, an Australian designer best known for her quirky illustrated tees and unexpected mixes of prints-she falls into the same category as Luella Bartley or Rachel Comey. 

Here are the trousers I'd like to focus on, I've said many times that there is no need for pleats on pants but here they are. Foot in mouth. The pleats aren't very wide though so her hip/crotch area doesn't look huge.  The pockets fall low and to the side, a bonus, so you don't look like you're pleasuring yourself as you walk down the street.

The iron crease down the front, and the narrowness of the pant leg keep these khakis from being too casual, if they were in brown, black, grey or navy they would still look new and crisp. Very versatile for work and play. If I could find a pair that fit I would buy 5 and die happy.

I don't want to tell everyone to run out and buy a motorcycle jacket but I do love how this one is soft and broken in, ruffled sleeves saves it from looking a bit lesbiany, if you're a tough girl stuck in the burbs this would work great for you.

God bless those red heels! They save the outfit from being drab and lifeless. Invest in some bright heels if that's all you can afford, they can transform anything from jeans to a shirt dress.

Tis the Season!

It's NY Fashion week and for the first time in 6 years I'm skipping the Fall 09 shows. I'm not gonna miss getting up at 6am to stress about what to wear, find on average 20 cabs a day and get hustled into the tents like cattle to sit behind B list celebs. I will miss the clothes but thank god for Style.com, they load all the pics of the shows, detail shots, front row celebs and all the after parties so I can sit home in my PJ's and still be part of it all.

Now that I'm my own boss I'm going to do what I always wanted to at a magazine but was not given the opportunity-tell you my favorite look of the day and why. Then at the end of the week I'll do a trend round up for NY and see how it competes with Milan and Paris. What fun! I love being unemployed!

Look of Day is exit #10 Jason Wu. I've been a fan of Jason's before this whole Obama hoopla, he makes pretty clothes that women feel special in. It's that simple.

I'm already seeing a lot of purple and varying shades on the runway, I'm partial to this shade of eggplant vs. a cooler shade of blue-ish purple. 

So here are the strengths of this look. Start with the rich saturated thin knit, paired with a printed full skirt in a black and white floral that appears more graphic than soft. This combination can usually be very dull but for some reason this looks fresh.

I'll skip the tiara but pay attention to those patent nude heels, they elongate the legs but still look intentional and like they are part of the outfit-not a side note. And finally find a necklace that takes up some real estate on your chest. If you're just wearing a knit you need to add some interest so the eye doesn't go directly to the skirt.

Overall this isn't a mind blowing look but it's modern, pretty and attainable-something we call all appreciate and potentialy buy if the price were right.

Remember Liz Clairborne?

If you need a refresher here's a Wiki page for you. Some cool facts about the brand, Liz Claiborne was the first designer to insist that her collection be placed together on the department store sales floor instead of in separate clothing categories which changed the way we shop forever.

Liz owns Mexx, Kate Spade, Juicy Couture and Lucky Brand Jeans to name a few and has recently hired Isaac Mizrahi to be the new Creative Director of their own self titled fashion line, Liz Clairborne New York.  Isaac's new line has just been debuted on the site, these new looks are supposed to excited women, both stay at home moms and executives. I'd love to hear your thoughts on these, also on the ease of the site and if you would actually buy anything.

Some words of wisdom before you shop...that polka dot skirt, and dress will make even the skinniest girl look fat. Don't be tempted by the whimsy.

J'adore Dior!

It's time for the Spring 09 Couture shows! Will you ever buy couture? NO. Do you even care? NO. But I'm going to share a few fun facts anyways. The definition of couture means made to order or handmade, it involves hours of hand stitching and embellishment, embroidery and a bazillion yards of fabric. The prices for couture gowns aren't even disclosed because they are crazy pants expensive and only for dignitaries and oil royalty...HOWEVER-they are soooo pretty and fun to look at. 

John Galliano designs for the Dior label and his shows are always entertaining.  He always takes some historic reference, this season it's flemish painters, and exaggerate it with hyper color, volume and texture. I love the quote he gave style.com about his latest creation.

"There's a credit crunch but not a creative crunch-it's our job to make people dream." I AGREE.

Another bit about John Galliano is that he dresses up as his own muse/inspiration for every show he designs. Here are a few of my favorite looks!

In case you missed it

Here's the link to the Mike & Juliet morning show makeover, I tackle a boob job and mini skirts on a very nice but very tacky 45 year old named Carrie.

Enjoy! Have a great weekend.

Oh and Chris your arms are fine.

Oh and also...

The NY designers are kickin ass right now!! This was sent to me by the CFDA - Council of Fashion Designers of America.

No Brainer

I've reached that point in the week when I can't really compose an interesting sentence. I've been stroking celebrity egos and taking a hard look at my credit score, two things that a human should not have to do for more than 10 minutes. So I decided to give you a simple, effective, mindless beauty tip that you can try out for under $20 and see results in less than 2 minutes.

You all have eyelashes and I'm sure you wouldn't mind if they looked a little longer. The Shu Uemura eye lash curler is the best one out there, heres the link to the limited edition gold one which I have and swear by, I think it's $24 but the silver one is $19-I have expensive taste. Theres a little bouncy rubber cushon built in that makes the process so painless, I've yet to have it pull out a lash. If you heat up the eye lash curler with your blow dryer for about 10 seconds before you use it, you will see your eyelashes curl more than ever and stay that way for at least 2 days. If you add your mascara after, starting from the base zig zagging the brush up all the way to the tips you will have 4X the lashes you had before. I have two favorite mascaras right now, Voluminous by L'Oreal in brown black and Lash Stiletto by Maybelline in black, they will not fail you.

Shoot day!

Too Much Substance, Not Enough Style

I'm sure Kelley will have more to say about the Golden Globe fashions but I can't resist pointing out one fact of life: when an actress is feeling insecure about her age or ability, she will reveal far too much of her body as compensation.